Also known as eggplant, these smooth purple-skinned vegetables range in size from the huge fat ones which are easy to find in all greengrocers to the small thin variety which the Chinese prefer because they have a more delicate flavour.
The Chinese do not normally peel aubergines, since the skin preserves their texture, shape and taste. Large aubergines should be cut according to the recipe, sprinkled with a little salt and left to stand for 20 minutes. They should then be rinsed and any liquid blotted dry with kitchen paper. This process extracts excess moisture and bitter juices from the vegetable before it is cooked.