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Cooking with Cream
Appears in
Published 1986
Once, to be recognizably Italian, dishes had to be suffocated with tomato. Recently, to fit the currently fashionable Northern Italian image, they float in cream. Neither way resembles the way Italians cook.
Cream has a connection with some Italian cooking, in particular the cooking of the rich agricultural plain in which the provinces of Bologna, Modena, Parma, and Reggio Emilia are dominant. In that cooking, however, cream is thought of not as a rich soak but as a barely perceptible binding agent in generally skimpy sauces.
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