Bread crumbs are as vital to many Italian dishes as mortar is to bricklaying. Crumbs are applied to the surface of food, as in a cutlet milanese, or added to a marinade, like the one used on the Adriatic when grilling fish, or mixed into a meat loaf: They are there to absorb excess moisture and to retain the appropriate amount of butter, oil, or other cooking fat.

• In a tin box I store any leftover non-sweet white bread, provided it has no extraneous flavors, such as those of herbs or seeds. When I have enough bread available, and time, I cut it into 1-inch pieces, then grind it in the food processor.
• I pass the crumbs through a strainer with not too fine a mesh.
• I put about 1 cup of crumbs in a medium-size skillet with a heavy bottom and turn on the heat to medium. I move the crumbs around frequently, bringing to the top the ones on the bottom, until they all become colored a light nut brown.
• I transfer the toasted crumbs to a large baking sheet and spread them out. I repeat the procedure with the rest of the crumbs, in batches of 1 cup.
• When the crumbs have cooled completely and all moisture has evaporated, I store them in a jar to use as needed.