The quince is an old-fashioned fruit that grows well in Britain. In the autumn, try making your own membrillo. Cut up approximately 2 kg quinces, place in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then simmer until the fruit is soft and can be mashed. Strain off any excess water and put the quinces through a mouli or sieve, getting rid of any core or pips. Weigh the purée and measure out an equal quantity of sugar. Place both the sugar and purée in the same (but washed) saucepan and return to the hob over a low heat. It is necessary to stir the mixture almost constantly, otherwise it might catch and burn. Let it bubble slowly (trying not to burn your stirring arm) until it has turned deep maroon in colour. This can take a while. Taste and add some lemon juice if it is very sweet. Pour on to a tray or dish lined with greaseproof paper, to a depth of 2–3cm. Put in a warm, dry place to cool completely and set.