Wasabi

This delightfully hot spice is used to highlight many sushi, sashimi, and cooked fish dishes. The wasabi root is rather nubby and usually grows between 3 and 5 inches in length. Fresh roots are hard to find, but if your local Japanese food store has them in their refrigerated case, by all means treat yourself—you’ll find herbaceous aroma as well as fire. Choose pale green roots with even coloration and darker ruffly leaves. Dark speckling on the root can be an early sign of spoilage; but look carefully—sometimes it’s just earth clinging to it. Whittle away the leaves and stem and grate just as much of the root as you need. Cover the rest with clear plastic wrap and refrigerate. The roots should keep well for at least a week.