Anchovies

These little fish are found in great abundance in the Mediterranean, and they flavor a great many Italian dishes, especially those of Sicily. A netful of anchovies is a dazzling sight—they are silver-colored with sky-blue markings. When you buy fillets in cans or jars, they are brownish and salty. You might want to soak them in cool water to reduce the saltiness, especially those that are packed in salt rather than oil. A modern convenience is anchovy paste, sold in tubes, which essentially is composed of pureed anchovies, perhaps with a little olive oil and salt added. If you buy anchovy paste, keep it refrigerated.