Known as Parmigiano in Italy, the cheese is actually a grana, a hard and grainy, pressed cheese made from partially skimmed cows’ milk. Parmigiano Reggiano from Emilia is regarded as the best. The cheeses are shaped like huge wheels, and can be aged for over two years. A younger Parmesan – a nuovo – is good as a dessert cheese with fruit, or flaked or slivered on top of salads; an older Parmesan, which is harder – a vecchio or a stravecchio – is grated on to soups, pasta etc.