By Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers
Published 1995
Porcini – ‘little pigs’ in Italian – are ceps, or Boletus edulis. The season for fresh mushrooms is very short – September and October – but many are dried, which concentrates the flavour so much that porcini are used almost like a seasoning. When buying dried porcini, look for large and meaty, creamy brown sections; avoid dark brown crumbly pieces. Store them in an airtight container, and never replace them with fresh mushrooms in a recipe.
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