This big tree, a relative of the rose, is native to Iran, and cultivation probably started there. The fruit’s hard, astringent flesh, somewhere between an apple and a pear but with a special aromatic perfume, lends tartness to stews, jams, custards and sherbet drinks. Its blossoms are also used to make a popular jam. Although quinces are available in supermarkets during the late autumn and winter, the biggest and best ones are sold in Persian groceries. When shopping, choose firm, unblemished fruit. At the end of the season you can wrap individual quinces in newspaper and store them in the refrigerator drawer for 2 to 3 weeks.