Scallops

The best part is thrown back to the fish, only the white muscle appearing on the American market. Americans writing of the food of France never fail to extol the delicacy of the lovely tongue of coral; untraveled readers are conscious of being deprived, stupidly and wastefully, of an exquisite thing. The deaf ear of the fishing industry is incomprehensible; how fine a thing it would be were the scallop-eaters of America to launch a well-publicized boycott so that a ray of light might pierce thick heads . . .