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By Richard Olney

Published 1974

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There is an edge—somewhat flat, slightly sweetish, fatty, and insidious—to fresh unsalted or uncured pork that palls on many a palate. The most successful remedy is to play something else a bit sweet against it, often supplemented by a sharp or acid element. The American spoonful of cold tinned applesauce as an accompaniment to roast pork may not be very exciting but, more imaginatively used (sliced and sautéed in butter; cored and peeled cross-sectional slices prepared as fritters with unsweetened batter), apples are among the more useful accompaniments to fresh pork (to blood sausage also).

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