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By Anya von Bremzen

Published 2005

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This is the signature farmhouse cheese of the verdant Basque hills. In the past it was produced by shepherds using lamb rennet and hung to drain on chimneys to acquire a smoky character. Made from the raw milk of the long-fleeced Latxa and Carranzana sheep, Idiazábal has a somewhat dense, buttery texture and a flavor that’s rich, nutty, and faintly piquant. Most Idiazábal available in this country is lightly smoked (usually over a local wood, such as hawthorn), which gives it a special rustic appeal. Fabulous for melting (try it in the Creamy Basque Smoked Cheese Risotto), Idiazábal is delicious on a piece of grilled country bread teamed with a sweet-smoky piquillo pepper. Or have it for dessert with a pear compote (such as the topping for the Blue Cheese & Pear Tart.

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