Appears in
Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets

By Darra Goldstein

Published 2015

  • About

akutuq known by outsiders as Eskimo ice cream. Pronounced auk-goo-duck, the word “akutuq” means “to stir.” This indigenous dish (1 part hard fat, 1 part polyunsaturated oil, and 4 parts protein or plant material) has been the culinary lifeblood of Natives in North America’s Arctic for 600 generations, nourishing families and traveling hunters. In its savory form, akutuq is considered analogous to the Indian pemmican bar. In its sweet berry-filled form, akutuq remains a favorite dessert.

Although precise ingredients may differ, Inupiaq elders still adhere to a basic method of preparation. Traditionally, the best hard white caribou fat (from the area surrounding the small intestines) is softened and whipped until fluffy. Then seal oil, rendered until clear and golden, is slowly beaten into the mass. After 45 minutes of beating with splayed fingers, tablespoons of water are whisked in, lightening it further and making it fluffy. In appearance and texture aqutuq resembles a classic French buttercream stabilized with sugar syrup. But after icy flavoring ingredients from the permafrost cellar or freezer are added, the silky-smooth consistency “breaks.” The mass instantly loses volume, appearing curdled. No one minds. It is a classic texture and has always looked that way.