In France, in 1786, M. Emy wrote the first book entirely devoted to ices and ice creams and the most comprehensive one for generations. See emy, m. His ice cream flavors ranged from cinnamon to saffron. His ices included pineapple, pomegranate, and rose. He also molded his ices and ice creams into decorative shapes.
Other confectioners began to do the same. Using molds of various shapes and sizes, they created realistic-looking peaches, strawberries, and pears to reflect the flavor of the ice or ice cream. They also molded ice cream into representations of hams, fish, and chickens that, happily, had nothing to do with the flavor of the ice cream.