sugar in experimental cuisine —the movement in which chefs seek to understand the underlying science of their craft in order to control the various elements with which they work—is the basis of much investigation, notably to produce desserts that are less sweet than traditional ones. For many chefs, such “modernist” desserts not only harmonize with the savory side of the menu, they can also be more healthful, since their minimalism relies on intensified flavors rather than on abundant amounts of sugar and fat.