Chez Etienne

If you climb the ecry covered stairway that leads up from the rue de la République into Marseilles’ old town, you will find a doorway marked Pizzaria immediately on your left. Inside, Étienne presides over what is a Marseilles institution, not just for pizza, but for aubergines in tomatoes, cheese & garlic, tiny cuttlefish fried simply but well in oil & parsley, & (best of all) tender lamb skewered on whole branches of rosemary, a method of adding herbs from the inside out that gives the meat a subtle aroma without over-powering it.