The pungent flavour of garlic is part of the fabric of China’s cuisine, and it would be inconceivable to cook without this distinctive, highly aromatic smell and taste. It is used in numerous ways: whole, finely chopped, crushed, and pickled. In China I have even found it smoked. It is used to flavour oils as well as spicy sauces, and is often paired with other equally pungent ingredients such as spring onions, black beans, curry, shrimp paste, or fresh ginger. In China, cooks often add a smashed clove of garlic to the hot oil. The garlic becomes fragrant and is said to have “sweetened” the oil; it is then removed and discarded before other ingredients are added.