Rigatoni

Rigatoni are ridged tubes of pasta, somewhat wider than penne, that may be straight or slightly curved by the extrusion process. They have parallel grooves running down the length of the pasta, hence their name, which stems from rigare (to rule or furrow). They are at their best with substantial, punchy, meaty sauces – famously con pajata, the intestines of unweaned calves, cooked with the mother’s curdled milk still inside. Pajata, whilst a delicacy I love, is both hard to find and unlikely to be much appreciated outside of Rome, but the daring are encouraged to try it there. Here follow three other classic Roman pastas, equally punchy and delicious, but less challenging to eat, or to find ingredients for.