In Provence as well as throughout France, when fresh herbs are out of season, smart cooks use the traditional mixture of dried herbs that are the very essence of the region. Called herbes de Provence, it can be easily recreated here by combining 1 ounce each of dried thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, summer savory, lavender, cloves, and orange zest. Just remember to use the very best dried herbs you can find. Mix them well and store them in a tightly sealed opaque jar. Use the mixture sparingly until you understand the intricacies of its flavors.