Mustard

A long-standing menu item at Prune, Gabrielle Hamilton’s restaurant in Manhattan, consisted of a can of sardines, a stack of Triscuits, a spoonful of Dijon mustard, and a pile of cornichons. Paired with a luxuriously oily fish, mustard offers an acidic, peppery reprieve from the richness, just as it does alongside pâté or chicken liver mousse. I’m a fan of Maille, which you can buy in a classic Dijon style or in a whole-grain form.