Turnip Greens

I he strong flavors of the Mustard family have never made it big in the United States, although they are great favorites throughout Europe and the Orient, where vigorous vegetable bitterness and bite are valued. With a particularly harsh heat and rough-textured leaves (like those of a coarse radish), turnip greens are not a loved vegetable in America, except to those who have been raised on them.

Despite the fact that the vegetable was sowed in Virginia as early as 1609, it has just begun to move beyond its residence in the South, thanks to the recent and passionate interest in regional cuisine. Turnip greens are cooked as they have been since slaves combined them with whatever pork parts were not used in the Great House, then stewed them until there was time to eat. As it happens, this is one of the most delicious ways to prepare the sharply assertive green, and it was eventually adopted in many not-so-humble homes (although it is still primarily plain folks’ food).