Bitter Gourd, Bitter Melon

Most North Americans find it difficult to imagine that bitter anything can be a hit anywhere—not to mention over half the globe. But the numerous names above (all encountered in markets in the New York City area) suggest that an aggressive personality can be a popular one. We have only recently discovered the appeal of strong “disagreeable” flavors in the form of fresh chilli, a food virtually unknown in this country outside the Southwest until some dozen years ago. In 1982, when I wrote an article about New Mexican food, the test kitchen staff at the magazine would hardly dare nibble the nasty hot peppers—now an American passion.