Japanese Greens: mizuna, mibuna, komatsuna

“Japanese greens” is the roof under which I’m grouping a trio of leafy vegetables that would otherwise remain homeless—that is, unclassifiable for the purposes of this book. Although authorities agree that they are all of the genus Brassica and nurtured in Japan, their species, origins, and close relatives remain debatable. But these mustardy-cabbagey greens share culinary characteristics and personality traits that put them on common ground.

Mizuna (also mizu-na, mizuna mustard, kyona) is slowly moving beyond Japanese groceries, home gardens, and restaurants to farmers’ markets, specialty produce stores, and a few supermarkets. Packing plenty of flavor in their pretty, incised leaves, the smallest specimens have a mild and refreshing nip; the largest have a potent bite.