Morels

Morels, the earliest spring mushrooms, are cause for celebration in many regions of the United States, particularly the Midwest, where they are most abundant. In Appalachia, too, they are greeted with festivities, but under a local name—molly moochers. Curiously, in an otherwise mycophobic country, this is one mushroom that appears to have slipped past the censors. Why, I cannot say. But I can say that the way morels are commonly cooked in the United States—by deep-frying in batter—manages to mask if not eliminate most of their mushroomier aspects.