Appears in
Oxford Companion to Wine

By Jancis Robinson

Published 2006

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Breganze, doc in the veneto region in north-east Italy, mainly for the international varieties for which demand is waning, and increasingly in need of redefining itself in a more Italian, indigenous context. Wines of real interest are produced from Bordeaux varieties, but tai bianco, the local vespaiola for the botrytized or dried-grape sweet white speciality Torcolato, the red marzemino, and the rare Gruaja, probably related to Valpolicella’s negrara Veronese, could add some distinction to the DOC. Maculan put Breganze on the map in the 1980s by focusing on quality instead of mere quantity by lowering yields, introducing modern winemaking equipment, and using barriques. Several estates followed his example, but the region as a whole receives little attention from the international market.