Food forums like Chowhound are buzzing with talk about the Golden Shopping Mall, and commenters start posting translated menus and recommendations. Our stall number keeps popping up. I put up a website with English menus. More people come, traffic spikes, and I get used to the lines snaking up from the basement stall, out into the street, and around the corner. I start to realize this isn’t just a livelihood for my dad. This is a phenomenon.
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