In a Nostalgic Moment

Kippers have proved a resilient food. Despite their strong taste and even stronger aroma, those of us who love them have managed to keep them going. They are still made on the Norfolk and Northumberland coasts, the Isle of Man and at various other sites dotted around the British coast. There is no better breakfast and, like Bertie Wooster, one is inclined to think they are good for the brain.

Given that they are still plentiful, it is surprising how clandestine the business of getting a whole kipper can be. Everywhere, if offered kipper, one is given fillet. Good hotels will generally offer them, but the true devotee will know the overwhelming thud of disappointment when served a couple of miserable little fillets because someone thinks we cannot be trusted with a whole kipper.