A Degree of Fascination

Peter Kromberg was old school. There are still legions of chefs like him, dotted around the world of international five-star hotels; chefs trained in rigid classical apprentice- ships, who work with the certainties offered by Escoffier’s Guide Culinaire and the well-worn pages of La Repertoire de la Cuisine. Peter died three years ago, after an absurdly brief period of retirement, and was singular not only because he was an exceptionally nice man but also because he fashioned a career and a reputation out of the soufflé.