Once in a while, a specialty cookie is going to call for a preserve, jelly or jam. In that case, unless you have your own homemade jam on hand, opt for a quality jam, one that is packed with flavor and fruit, not thickened with extra pectin or sugar. The fruity flavor and color should dominate. It’s not an afterthought ingredient in a great cookie; it’s one more ‘cookie cast member’ that adds to the total package. So shop wisely for a great product and use it proudly in your baking.