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Published 1988
… And “Good drinking!” The discussion is constant over what should be drunk with Chinese food. It becomes even more pertinent when we talk about what goes well with Cantonese food, for the tastes of the Cantonese kitchen are far more subtle, far more varied than those of any other region of China. The Cantonese generally drink tea with their meals, and the teas are chosen carefully to complement foods or for what the Cantonese consider their internal values. Oolong tea, for example, dark but mild, is a Cantonese favorite, but many people prefer bo lei, strong and bitter, because they claim it aids the digestion. Some would rather have jasmine-scented tea with dim sum; and an extremely strong Iron Goddess tea, favored by the Chiu Chow people, is perfect, they say, to counter the effects of foods that may be fatty or otherwise heavy.
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