Fish

Appears in

By Joyce Molyneux

Published 1990

  • About

I find the complete about-turn in attitudes to fish since the early 1970s quite amazing. In those days you had fish either grilled with a maître d’hotel butter, or poached with a cream sauce. The permissible combinations were rigidly adhered to, and we ate sole veronique, or one of the other stereotypes, all delicious enough when well made, but demanding little imagination.

Nowadays, however, the cooking of fish has taken on a marvellous exuberance – there has been a torrent of new recipes and ideas. The British are discovering that not only are there a huge number of ingredients that you can put with fish, quite apart from the standard ones, but that there is a whole host of types of fish, offering enormous variation in taste and texture.