Tom left the business in 1984 and, a few months later, Meriel Boyden, George’s niece, stepped into his shoes. It has been a successful and enduring partnership. Meriel is supportive, and entirely in tune with the way the restaurant is run and the kind of food we offer. We have basically the same ideas and attitudes.
The general philosophy of the restaurant has not changed over the years. I want to make customers feel comfortable, relaxed and welcome, and that is every bit as important as the quality of the food and wine. Neither the staff nor I are here to show off or score points. To that end we try to make service as unobtrusive as possible, anticipating people’s wants, without constantly fluttering around them.