Introduction

Every cheese—and more than three thousand different kinds are made around the world—has its own distinct appearance, texture, aroma, and taste. Those unique qualities owe something to the maker, of course, but also to the land—lush alpine grasses or meadows, valley oaks or pines—on which the animals that produce the milk graze. Cheeses even taste different depending on the season. Many years ago, when I raised goats in Provence, the cheese I made from their milk was richer and creamier in spring when they were feeding on the fresh green grasses and early, tender oak leaves. With the arrival of the hot Mediterranean summer, the grasses dried, and the goats turned to wild thyme and more mature leaves for sustenance. The cheese made during those warm days was tangier and less sweet than its springtime counterpart. Recognizing that difference made me appreciate not only the skill that goes into making cheese, but also the role played by both nature and the farmer who cares for the animals that produce the milk.