Starches

Appears in

By Ellen Schrecker

Published 1976

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Like most of China, Szechwan is a rice-eating region, but it lies so near the wheat growing area of North China that many of its farmers cultivate both crops. Mrs. Chiang’s father did, and in their home the staple rice was supplemented by noodles, breads, and pastries made with flour of a freshness we Americans can no longer imagine.

“Our wheat was ground nearby right after harvesting; the flour was wonderfully fresh and fragrant, and my mother made noodles and pastries so sweet I can still taste them. Some of the most famous Szechwanese recipes are for noodles, bread, and pastries. We ate them for snacks; the streets of Chengtu were full of noodle stalls and street vendors selling all kinds of sweet and savory pastries. I especially loved the little balls of glutinous rice that came in a sweet soup. When we were very small we were taken into town in a wheelbarrow to visit relatives; it was a long, bone-crunching ride, an hour and a half each way, and only the promise of some sweet pastries made it bearable.