The Flavour of Rice

Boiled Rice; Chicken Congee

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top 1000Chinese Gastronomy
Chinese Gastronomy

By Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin

Published 1957

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The true flavours are the ones which cannot be counterfeited. No cook has ever been foolish enough to re-create the flavour of rice. For this reason, if anyone ever doubts the real flavour of things, let him eat plain rice. “A gourmet will eat plain rice and not ask for other food.”

Rice has its hsien (sweet natural taste). The hsien is concealed in the grains, and meted out bit by bit in the aftertaste. The dual nature of the taste of rice (immediate and aftertaste) is what makes it impossible to duplicate. It is also difficult to describe; one can only call attention to it. Yuan Niei spoke of the “juices” of rice. These can be tasted if one chews plain, well-cooked rice. Water dilutes the “juices”, soaking removes them; thus, in the cooking of rice no excess water can be tolerated.