It is wise to buy the best fish, whatever it is, in the shop that day, rather than an inferior fish just to fit a particular recipe. Fresh fish should smell like the sea and never smell ‘fishy’. They should be firm, have shiny scales and bright, clear eyes. Really fresh fish may have gaping mouths and open gill flaps. Some fish, such as salmon and trout, are covered in a clear slime (old slime is opaque). Oily fish deteriorate faster than white fish so be particularly vigilant when buying them.