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Introduction

Appears in

By Anne Willan

Published 2007

  • About
I often ask myself “Why France?” Just why is the country cooking of France so compelling, and why does it exert such fascination and evoke so much respect? I was raised in the countryside (in Yorkshire, not in France) and grew up with fresh farm produce and the habit of snapping up the best in the nearby outdoor market. None of that prepared me for the riches of rural France, the sights, the smells, the relish with which everyone enjoys the diversity of ingredients that change with the seasons.

One key is terroir. When shopping for produce in French markets, everywhere you’ll come across produits du terroir; almost any magazine article about a chef is bound to talk about the taste, or goût du terroir; and French cookbooks are full of what are called recettes du terroir. No English equivalent exists, but the French word has spread internationally—particularly in wine circles—over the past thirty years. What exactly does terroir mean?

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