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Food, The Great Equalizer

Appears in
The Cuisine of Life: Recipes and Stories of the New Food Entrepreneurs of Turkey

By Center for International Private Enterprise

Published 2019

  • About
I have studied how food connects us to culture and history throughout my entire life. This work was underscored in Istanbul, where I had the opportunity to reinforce a lifelong observation of my work as a journalist and cookbook writer: cooking together creates bonds across borders, religions, and cultures.

When I arrived at the LIFE kitchen, I noticed a woman carefully tucking orzo, chicken, and dill into a tiny porcelain teacup lined with a blanched Swiss chard leaf. Using the cup as a mold, she then turned it upside down and released it into a rectangular pan, spooning tomato sauce on top before baking. It occurred to me later that this may be the first time this dish, served in villages for generations during times of mourning, will be documented for the future. (the recipe.) Another woman was making a pilav with freekeh, a parched green wheat that has been around for centuries. Everyone discussed this dish because each person’s family made it a different way, using oral recipes passed down through generations in every home and every village throughout the Middle East.

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