‘Tis the Season

“Menu planning is something that people do at home, for themselves and when they’re cooking for family and friends,” notes Alice Waters. “It’s very, very important to understand the principles, I think. And a complex thing to do.” For Waters, there’s no question where the process starts. “Obviously, it’s what’s in the market, what’s seasonal. That’s number one,” she says. “I just go and look, and I really don’t decide before I look. What if what I wanted wasn’t ripe, or wasn’t there? I have some ideas, of course; when you get used to doing this, you look through books and get ideas, and then go to the market.