Techniques

Appears in

Published 1996

Grilling/smoking. As much as we intellectually can talk about chefs as artists, we’re basically beasts cooking over fire. Or at least we want to be, because that is really what connects us so much to the primordial past that I think is still very important to our being complete humans. Watching and smelling nature go through that transformation—that is good yoga!
Stir-frying. I love the suddenness of it. I like the absolute balls-to-the-walls, full-steam-ahead, every-thing-gets-to-be-done-rapidly-and-maintain-its-integrity in stir-frying.
Roasting (sneaking a little braising into it). It’s slow, ancient, homey, healthy.

“There’s a triumvirate of opportunity among those three techniques—whether it’s vegetables or fish or meat, there’s a way of finding such great flavors in there that, for me, poaching does not begin to compare.”

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