Fish & Seafood Curries

Appears in

By Raghavan Iyer

Published 2008

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Look at a map of India and you will instantly realize why fish and seafood dishes are a staple in much of the country. Prawns, crabs, lobsters, mussels, and a myriad of saltwater fishes populate the warm tropical waters of the Arabian Sea to the west, the Indian Ocean to the south, and the Bay of Bengal to the east. All the coastal states show great creativity in incorporating these fruits from the seas into their curries.

In the west of India, the Maharashtrians make Pan-Grilled Mackerel with a Tamarind Sauce and Mussels in a Coconut-Chile Sauce, while the Parsis whip up Steamed Fillet of Sole Wrapped in Leaves at every auspicious gathering. Just to the south, in Goa, the Portuguese Christians relish Pan-Seared Shrimp with a Spicy-Hot Chile Vinegar Paste and the Karwars savor Toasted Tamarind-Rubbed Shrimp with a Coconut-Ginger Sauce. I adore the saucy flavors of Nimmy Paul’s Fish Fillets Poached in a Tomato-Vinegar Sauce, which reflects the cuisine of the Syrian Christians in the state of Kerala. Travel to Sri Lanka, the tear-shaped island just south of India, and you won’t be able to resist the Sri Lankan Crabs with Tart Leaves and Coconut Milk. Meander along to the east coast of India and notice how the Bengalis from Calcutta revere fish and seafood at any time of the day. Their simple fish curries, such as Tilapia with a Yogurt Sauce and Carp Poached with Onion, Whole Spices, and Chiles, showcase their favorite spices—mustard, fenugreek, and turmeric—while their close neighbors to the north, the Assamese, create their own rendition of carp in their signature Carp Steaks with Fenugreek and Lime Juice.