Second Dinner in and Around the Crowded Mohammed Ali Road

This area is crowded at most times, but the hungry peoples that descend during Ramadan fill it past bursting. The sun sets, the devoutly longed-for call of the muezzin sounds out across the rooftops and the streets are flooded with life. There are people everywhere, intently focused on eating after a long day of fasting and prayer. Many wear traditional Bohri dress: the men in white kurtas and sayas (overcoats) and white and gold topis (caps), the women in pastel-coloured cloak-like ridas. People cluster in tight groups around the food stalls, which are all turning out dishes with haste. In amongst the people ambles the odd goat or two, bleating good-naturedly and nibbling at stray scraps of food. Beggars ask for goodwill in the form of food or rupees, both more forthcoming than usual during this holy time.