COLABA IS THE FIRST PLACE that many tourists new to the city will head for, un-thumbed guidebook in hand. Beautiful buildings and famous landmarks sit amongst an economy boosted by tourist money and by the time-honoured expectation that visitors can, with persistence, be sold any old junk. You can hardly move without someone trying to negotiate a price with you for giant balloons of many colours, or postcards faded from having never been bought, or offering to take your photo by the Gateway of India for a fee.