Reference

* Dictionnaire de l’Académie des Gastronomes, Aux Éditions Prisma, 2 volumes, 1962.

I have never divulged in print or otherwise the book that I have prized and relied on most heavily in writing about the classic dishes of France. It is this dictionary. It was given to me many years ago by Vincent Bourrel, who was then president of the Academy of Gastronomes in Paris, and the book has been an invaluable reference work where my writings are concerned.

It lists words that are essential to the French kitchen, describes the ingredients to be used in the preparation of foods as well as the origins of the names of dishes. Let me choose one name to illustrate my dedication and enthusiasm for the two volumes. Let us say I am familiar with one dish that bears the name salade Bagration and am curious to know how the name came about. I learn that the name is given in homage to an Armenian prince named Pierre Bagration who lived from 1765 to 1812. He was chiefly celebrated as an adversary of Napoleon. His name is applied chiefly to a soup and a salad. The common ingredient in these dishes is the presence of macaroni. The salad also includes a julienne of artichoke bottoms and celery root in mayonnaise garnished with tomato. The soup is made with veal broth and cream. I also learn that there is a dish called eggs Bagration and it is made with cooked eggs garnished with macaroni, cream, and black truffles.