The case for Christmas

Every family has its own, personal Christmas traditions. Ours involve elaborate planning and — to tell the truth — prolonging and emphasising as much as possible the pleasurable anticipation of the feast. We are seldom fewer than 18 at table for the Christmas meal, which has evolved into a stately chorus line, choreographed by my wife and me with the help of the principal dancers, who include some well-known professional cookery writers, and supported by the teamwork of the rest of the guests. At noon we gather in front of the fire in the drawing room and drink champagne while the children open their presents. Guests wander in through the front door of our 17th-century Oxfordshire farmhouse from noon until we sit down to eat at four.