Menu Six

You are probably not surprised to learn that I am not a fan of fusion. They can keep their wasabi aïoli, thank you very much. But though my training and inclination usually push me in a European—or at least a Mediterranean—direction, there’s a dim sum–eating, noodle-soup–slurping part of me too.

In both cities where I live—San Francisco and Paris—robust Asian communities have seductive markets offering such enticing ingredients it’s impossible for a curious cook to remain stubbornly, foolishly Western. I’ve found ways to enhance much of my cooking with the subtle use of ginger and sesame. I think Chinese five-spice powder is a genius seasoning. Its classic combination of pepper, star anise, clove, fennel seed, and cinnamon can perfectly perfume duck, pork, or any other meat.