As with all things in life, there is cheese... and there is cheese. There are a number of quality cheeses, and these are the ones I suggest you try to find, being the perfect end to the perfect meal. Look for those made by small producers who would consider their cheese hand-made; ones by larger producers who care for the old traditions fiercely, such as the producers of Parmigiano Reggiano; and some of the larger producers from France who make Camembert, Brie and blue cheeses of great quality. An English Cheddar made to traditional farmhouse methods and aged is one of the great tastes in the world. Try to avoid mass-produced cheeses that lack flavour, character and balance. Unfortunately, this is the great majority of cheeses in the world today, so search hard for the best-quality cheese you can find; it isn’t as easy as you think. Cheese is simply preserved milk, so it makes sense that the quality of the milk and the way it is handled will really make not just a difference, but a huge difference. Think of cheese as you do wine. It’s not always true, but a lot of the time you get what you pay for. Also, don’t waste money by having mounds of cheese on the table. About 60–100 g (2¼-3½ oz) cheese per person will be more than enough, so buy quality not quantity.