Fruit is not only healthy but, when perfectly ripe and in season, is also one of the best ways to finish a meal. Perhaps it isn’t cooking but, as with selecting the best cheese, selecting the best fruit in season can by itself elevate the end of a meal to something special. The other essential thing about seasonal fruit is that it all seems to go well together, so try working with fruit that is not imported and is in its natural season. The next simplest dessert to prepare after selecting fruit and putting it on the table is to make a fruit salad; again, make it a seasonal celebration. It can make a marvellous centrepiece, served in a beautiful large glass bowl and set in the middle of the table. A little sugar syrup mixed with passionfruit, or the juice of one of the fruits you are serving, or a mixture of vanilla, fruit juice and a little sugar syrup is also a great dressing for the salad. At the restaurant we will sometimes cut all the fruit into very fine dice; this is time consuming, but very impressive visually. You need to make sure that each of the fruits can be tasted individually as well as collectively. Serve with fresh granita, ice cream or a little clotted cream, or au naturel, in beautiful martini glasses.