Meat, Poultry and Game

Classic French country dishes have their roots in centuries of fine cooking – the basic methods of preparing meat, poultry, and game, most involving herbs, have changed little over the years.

High in the Cévennes in central France, there is a small hotel which, at times, has been my home. For days I have sat, reading and writing, in the garden that overlooks the lovely valley of a bubbling river. Across the track that runs down to the river is a fine kitchen garden with rows of well-tended vegetables and herbs. One side is edged with chives that in midsummer are covered with purple spiky flowers, and in the corner there is a large patch of bright green sorrel.