Eggs & Omelets

ALTHOUGH in the past 20 years the egg has come under heavy attack for the cholesterol in its yolk, and although I no longer eat them as frequently as I once did, I have not given up the pleasure that this most versatile of foods provides. Besides being an excellent source of protein, eggs are an ingredient in many of the masterpieces of French cooking.

Many a French meal includes an egg dish. Eggs—poached, soft- or hard-boiled, baked, fried, scrambled, or in an omelet or quiche—are offered as first courses, or may be the main attraction of a lunch.